Sunday, September 6, 2009

Roubo Bench - One Year Later



It's been a little over a year since I finished building my workbench based on the Roubo design. In that time I've had the opportunity to build a number of projects with the bench, so I'd like to share some thoughts about how the bench has performed in the last year.



One of the first projects the bench saw was a cherry bathroom cabinet with a rather large single door. The sliding leg vise, which I built specifically for holding this type of work, did a fantastic job of holding the door for working on its edges and ends. The sliding leg vise is a beast of a vise when coupled with the stationary leg vise. It's huge capacity and raw holding power have convinced me that it was a wise decision to build this vise. The wood screws from Big Wood Vise have also proven their worth over the past year. They hold extremely well, turn very smoothly, and move very rapidly. I'm really satisfied with them.



The one thing I don't like about the wood screws on the sliding vise is the length of the hub. When planing the edges of boards held between both leg vises, it's a nuisance to step around the hub of the vise during the planing stroke.



The sliding leg vise is a trade-off. It's perfect when needed, but otherwise I want it out of the way completely. Most of the time I keep it stored on the shelf of the bench. I'm glad I made it easily removable-it can be dismounted in about 10 seconds.

I also made the back side of the bench so it can receive the sliding leg vise. This has come quite handy. I can slide the vise all the way to the left and in effect I'm left with a double-sided bench with leg vises at opposite corners. I keep my bench in the middle of my shop, so I can access both sides at all times.



What can I say about the wagon vise? I love it. I have yet to find a time where I've used it and been frustrated, impatient, or found it lacking in any way. It's met and exceeded my every expectation. I've only had to make one or two adjustments over the entire year. This summer I had to remove the dog block and take a couple shavings from one side to let slide freely. That's it. Wood moves as shop conditions change, and I'm quite amazed how the vise has handled the four seasons. The capabilities of the vise are quite basic. Clamp between dogs, or clamp between jaws. But its ease of use make it the best tail vise I've ever used.

This wagon vise (like any wagon vise) does not allow open-front clamping like a traditional "moving block" tail vise. I was a bit apprehensive about losing this capability. But in the past year, I've only moved to my old bench (which has a traditional tail vise) for its open jaw maybe half a dozen times. I was a bit surprised how little I actually used this feature, since I had imagined I'd used it much more frequently. I'd say that 90% of my work can be handled by a wagon vise. Nevertheless, I'll still keep a bench with a traditional tail vise for those other occasions.



Another project that put the bench through its paces was this large console cabinet. The project presented a lot of workholding challenges, and the Roubo came through with each of them. Removing the leg vise entirely makes for an uninterrupted surface at the front of the bench and allows an unencumbered work area for assembling this massive frame member. The stiffness of the top combined with the length of the top made joining this assembly rather enjoyable. My previous bench would have been a real source of frustration with this project. To get a better sense of scale of this project, here's the finished piece on my two saw benches.





The framework of the bench is built using drawbored mortise and tenon joints. After a year of use and 4 seasonal changes, all are as tight as the day they were assembled. The flush surfaces have moved slightly, but not enough to affect performance.

The open grain of the Ash was always a concern for the top of the bench. I've said a few times that I had wished I'd used hard maple for the top because of its closed grain. Yeah, I've had to pick out some stray metal particles from the Ash top, but I've only once run into a metal bit that caused me a slight problem. Nothing serious. In all, I'm really satisfied with the Ash. It's rigid as heck and very resilient. The latter point is a matter of debate, since it makes sense that a benchtop would ideally be softer than the project wood, thus allowing the bench to take the brunt of dings and scratches. Nevertheless, I'm satisfied with the Ash as a bench wood.



Even with the level of satisfaction I achieved with the bench in the past year, I've made a couple changes recently that have transformed the bench into an even better tool.

With the development of the Glide Leg Vise I've retrofitted the bench with this hardware. I was totally satisfied with the hardware from Big Wood Vise (and I still use it on my sliding leg vise), but the Glide has proven to be a real pleasure to use. It's fast, requires little effort to use, and has oodles of holding power.



Some people think that the hand wheels look out of place on such a traditional bench, since shiny metal hand wheels are more common to power machinery. First off, the wheel is a pretty old idea. Secondly, a hand wheel is a manual control device that lends itself to the movement of advancing and retracting the jaws of a woodworking vise (just like advancing and retracting a part of a machine like a table-saw trunnion or planer bed). Tommy bars are not very ergonomic, quick or pleasant to use, but they do offer a huge mechanical advantage by means of a long lever. If the need for a long lever is eliminated--by better engineering of the vise's holding capabilities--then the replacement of the less-ergonomic control device becomes possible, in this case with a better device-the hand wheel. I think the Glide looks fantastic on the Roubo bench.

By the way, using a hand wheel on a woodworking vise is not a new idea.



This is H.O. Studley's bench. He's more famous for his tool cabinet.

Getting back to the sliding leg vise. Most the time I don't need it. But occasionally I do need some support for long boards or wide panels when I don't want to mount up the sliding leg vise. So earlier this week I built a deadman.



The great thing about the deadman is that is stays flush with the front of the bench until you need to plug in a holdfast or clamp to secure the work. I built mine from 12/4 stock so it ended up extra thick-about 2-1/2". It doesn't need to be so thick, but I didn't see the point in planing away all that wood, or resawing. The extra mass provides lots of stability and weight, so the deadman slides easily.



The deadman engages the same slot in the underside of the bench as the sliding leg vise, which has a thicker rear section. I attached two cleats behind the deadman to engage the slot using some cap screws threaded and tapped into the deadman from behind.



I built deadman so it doesn't interfere with my benchdogs. So I can slide the deadman freely along the bench at any time and with the dogs in any configuration, up or down. I don't like things interrupting the flow of my work. The sliding leg vise has this problem, and I decided to fix it when I built the deadman.



The bench as it exists now is hands down my favorite tool in the shop. I love hand planes, but those only perform to satisfaction with a fine bench below them. If you're reading this, and considering building a new work bench for fine furniture making, I can't recommend this bench design enough. It has given me a renewed sense of enthusiasm for woodworking and furniture making, and I get pleasure and satisfaction from working on it every time I'm in the shop.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Inlaying Pearl In Brass



Inlaying pearl is a challenge. The stuff is hard and brittle, and thus unforgiving. I'm not a huge fan of it for instrument work. I prefer more subtle materials like wood or ivory. Nevertheless, the shimmering iridescence of mother of pearl can be a nice touch when used sparingly, for my taste. So I chose this material to inlay into a Veritas Brass Insert Knob for a curly cherry side table I recently finished.

Working with the pearl requires some special considerations since the material cannot be cut using typical woodworking techniques.

I find it easiest to buy pearl in random sizes, but of a consistent thickness. The best place I know of to buy pearl is Depaule Supply. I pay around $10-$20 for an ounce of random pieces of white MOP.

Cutting the pearl is not difficult, but it does require a steady hand. I use a jeweler's saw with a 2/0 blade. I like Pike brand. A bird's mouth fixture is the best for cutting out small pieces.



This particular knob takes a 3/4" dia. inlay. I draw the circle on the blank, roughly cut it with the jeweler's saw, then take it close to my layout line on the belt sander. It's important not to breathe the pearl dust. I have a dust collector port next to my belt sander.



I sand up to the line.



I chuck a piece of scrap wood in the lathe and turn down the end to around 3/4" dia. This happens to be a piece of cocobolo. I don't typically use this as scrap wood, this is a reject knob from a Benchcrafted Tail Vise.



I glue the pearl disc to the end of the sacrificial piece with some CA glue, and take a measurement of the inside diameter of the knob. It's a tad smaller than 3/4". This is just for reference, I don't use the caliper to fit the inlay.



I turn down the pearl using a file...



...or sometimes a piece of course sandpaper wrapped around the file. Note my dust collection hood right behind the work.



I stop frequently and test the fit with the knob. I want it just snug, so there is no visible joint between the pearl and the brass.



Once it fits (ignore the shorter sacrificial blank, this is from another knob sequence) I apply some CA glue to the inside of the knob, press the knob onto the pearl inlay, then tap the knob with a small hammer to make sure it seats well.



I take the blank from the chuck and cut off the knob on the bandsaw.





I then mount the knob onto a special mandrel that Lee Valley also sells.



I place the mandrel in a drill chuck mounted to the headstock and begin to turn the remaining wood from the end of the pearl.



I don't use the tool to cut the pearl, but only to part off the wood.



Once the wood is gone I begin to work the pearl with sandpaper.



I slightly dome the end of the pearl and make sure is transitions smoothly into the brass knob. I work up through 1000 grit, using water once I get to 400 grit.



Finally I use a little Brasso polish to bring a nice sheen to the brass. The pearl takes on a nice translucent quality with depth and chatoyance.



The finished knob is lustrous and beautiful, like a piece of jewelery.





It adds a nice touch to this piece of furniture. The cool pearl contrasting nicely with the warmth of the curly cherry.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Woodworking In America



See my post at the Benchcrafted Blog about this upcoming weekend.

If you're in the Chicago area, please stop by and say hello.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Another Roubo Bench



It's been about a year since I finished my first Roubo bench project. I didn't think I'd do it again in my lifetime. But here I am a year later and I've just completed a third massive Roubo-style bench. I'm using this bench to display Benchcrafted vises at the Woodworking In America Conference in St. Charles, IL next month.

This bench will be used lightly over the course of the weekend, and Sunday afternoon when the conference ends, the bench will be available for pick up.

The top sections, base and shelf are of soft maple. The top measures 7' 3" long x 24" wide and is 4" thick. The height is 35". The top joins to the base on 1" tenons at the top of each leg, plus 4 Spaz

The bench is outfitted with both the Glide Leg Vise and Benchcrafted Tail Vise.

The Glide features a hard maple chop that is over 2-1/2" thick. The vise chop is 9" wide and opens to a maximum capacity of 9".

The Benchcrafted Tail Vise is installed for maximum capacity of 11-1/4" between the jaws. Maximum holding capacity between dogs is 75". All vise jaws and dog faces are lined with perforated suede leather for fantastic grip.

The 3-1/2" x 5-1/2" base legs are drawbored mortise and tenon to the short stretchers and complete the base with two long rails through knockdown fasteners: 1/2" bolts and 1"dia. custom steel barrel nuts.

The shelf in the base is 21" x 49" ship lapped curly maple.

The sliding deadman/board jack is hard maple and is outfitted with a Veritas Surface Clamp. The right leg and tops are drilled for Gramercy holdfasts (two included) or other accessories that fit 3/4" holes.

The bench weighs 285 lbs.











The gap between the tops is wide enough to accommodate a K-Body clamp. The bench features an accessory strip that fits between the tops that can serve multiple functions. In it's flush position (below) it seals the gap and prevents all but small tools from falling through. The slot in the strip can be used for storing tools (see below).



Flip the strip over and it protrudes above the bench about 1/2", serving as a planing stop or sawing stop when slid to one end of the bench. The strip simply rests on the top rails of the base in both configurations and can be removed instantly if desired.















If you're interested in purchasing this bench at the WIA show in Chicago, please drop me a line. The price is $3195.